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Sat 8 Oct 1932 - Weekly Times (Melbourne, Vic. : 1869 - 1954)
Page 17 - Our Women's Section
Our Women's Section
none Help
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Original Knitting and Crochet Patterns
By "A MOTHER"
New Tatting Designs
As the warmer weather approaches, our thoughts turn once more to the
question of lighter frocks and lingerie, but although it is still rather too
early for these to be worn, it is not too soon to consider their preparation.
Lingere especially can be made now, in readiness for the first warm days.
With the addition of a little simple hand work, the least expensive garment
can be transformed into a thing of beauty worth many times the value of its
material.
Those who appreciate the charm of hand-made lingerie, and who are able
to do tatting, will welcome the directions for working the medallions and
attractive little edging illustrated above. Although these designs have been
especially planned for lingerie, they may be used for many other articles,
suggestions for which are given in the directions for each design.
The article to which they are to be applied will determine the size of
thread with which they are to be worked.
To Work the Edging.— If worked with No. 24 crochet silk this new edging is
charming for silken lingerie. For fine linen handkerchiefs use No, 80 mercer
cotton, and for edging colored or white embroidered linens use No, 60 cotton,
either colored or white. Work with both shuttle and ball threads. Ring, 5ds,
6p, sep. by 3ds, 5ds. Chain 6ds, 1p, 6ds.
Clover Leaf: 1st ring, 5ds, join to last p of last ring, 3ds, 1p, 3ds. * 2nd
ring, 3ds, join to p of 1st ring, 3ds, 5p, sep. by 3ds, 3ds. 3rd ring, 3ds, join
to 5th p of 2nd ring, 3ds, 1p, 5ds. Chain 6ds, 1p, 6ds. Ring. 5ds, join to p of
3rd ring of clover leaf, 3ds, 5p, sep. by 3ds, 5ds. Chain, 5ds, 1p, 5ds. Ring,
5ds, 1p, 5ds, 1p, 1ds, 1p, 10ds. Chain 3ds. 1p, 3ds, join to 5th p of round ring,
3ds, 3p, sep. by 3ds, 3ds. Ring, 10ds, join to 2nd p in centre of last ring, 1ds,
1p, 10ds. Chain 3ds, 4p, sep. by 3ds, 3ds. Ring as last ring. Chain 3ds, 5p,
sep. by 3ds, 3ds. Ring, 10ds, join to p of last ring, 1ds, join to 2nd p of 1st
ring of these four rings, 5ds, 1p, 5ds. Chain 5ds, 1p, 5ds. Ring 6ds, join to
4th p of last long chain, 3ds, 5p, sep. by 3ds, 5ds. Chain 6ds, 1p, 6ds.
Clover Leaf: 5ds, join to 5th p of last ring, 3ds, 1p, 3ds. Repeat from * for
required length, and sew on by the picots along the inner edge of the work.
At end, join the first and last rings so the design will be continuous, and
fasten off the last chain, by drawing a loop of thread through the first ring,
pass the shuttle through the loop and draw up. Tie firmly and cut threads off.
For a Handkerchief Edging.— To turn corners for a handkerchief edging
try to arrange the work so one of the scallop motifs comes at each corner,
then in working it, make five or six rings instead of only four as in the edging.
Make all chains of corner scallops 3ds, 5p, sep. by 3ds, 3ds.
The Square Medallion. — This medallion may be used for lingerie if made
with the silk advised above. A little simple embroidery worked around it
would be all that is required for the adornment of the front of either a
nightgown or a Princess slip. Worked with No. 50 or No. 60 mercer cotton,
a number of these would be charming inset either singly or joined together
to form an insertion for tray cloths, and other linens. The medallion is worked
in two sections with both threads. Centre ring: 2ds, 8p, sep. by 3ds, 1ds. Tie
and cut. Fill the shuttle. Centre section: Ring 5ds, join to p of centre ring,
5ds. * Chain 5ds, 1p, 5ds. Ring, 5ds, join to next p of centre ring 5ds. Repeat
from *, and fasten off last chain, by drawing a loop of thread from the left
hand through the first ring, pass shuttle through the loop and draw up. Tie
tightly before cutting the threads off.
Directions for using these attractive designs in several ways are given on this page. Help
Directions for using these attractive designs in several ways are given on
this page.
Border of the Medallion.— Ring. 3ds, 1p, 3ds, 1p, 3ds, join to p of a chain
of centre section, 3ds, 1p, 3ds, 1p, 3ds. Chain 6ds. Ring 3ds, 7p, sep. by 3ds.
3ds. Chain 6ds. Ring, 3ds, 7p, sep. by 3ds, 3ds. Chain 6ds. Ring, 3ds, 1p,
3ds, 1p, 3ds, join to p of next chain of centre section, 3ds, 1p, 3ds, 1p, 3ds.
Chain 6ds, join to 7th p of the ring with 7p, 3ds, 3p, sep. by 3ds, 3ds. Ring
3ds, 7p, sep. by 3ds, 3ds. Chain 3ds, 8p, sep. by 3ds, 3ds, join to 4th p of last
ring, and continue chain, 3ds. 4p, sep. by 3ds, 6ds. Ring, 3ds, 1p, 3ds, 1p, 3ds,
join to p of next chain of centre section, 3ds, 1p, 3ds, 1p, 3ds. Chain 6ds.
Ring, 3ds, join to 4th p of last chain after the join to the round ring, 3ds, 6p,
sep. by 3ds, 3ds. Repeat from *. When making the last chain of all, join
it also to 1st p of the 1st ring with 7p, and fasten off the last chain as pre-
viously described.
The Round Medallion.— Although it is more nearly round than any other
shape, this medallion is made by working a triangle of tatting, to which the
little side scallops are joined. Without these it is a perfect three-cornered
medallion, so two separate ones may be made from these directions. Worked
with No. 24 crochet silk, this is a particularly lovely medallion for lingerie,
while if made with No. 70 crochet cotton, six, joined around a central one
by the points would make an all-over lace d'Oyley. Ring, 3ds, 5ps sep. by 3ds.
3ds. Chain 7ds. Ring, 6ds, 5p, sep. by 3ds, 6ds. * Chain, 6ds. Ring, 5ds, join
to last p of last ring, 3ds, 3p, sep. by 3ds, 5ds. Chain 5ds, 1p, 5ds.
Clover Leaf.— 1st ring: 4ds, join to last p of last ring, 3ds, 1p, 3ds, 1p, 3ds.
2nd ring: 3ds, join to 2nd p of 1st ring, 3ds, 5p, sep. by 3ds, 3ds. 3rd ring: 3ds,
join to 5th p of 2nd ring, 3ds, 1p, 3ds, 1p, 4ds. Chain 4ds, join to p of last
chain 5ds. Ring. 5ds, join to 2nd p of 3rd ring of clover leaf, 3ds, 3p, sep. by
3ds, 5ds. Chain 6ds. Ring, 6ds, join to last p of last ring, 3ds, 4p, sep. by
3ds, 6ds. Chain 7ds. Ring, 3ds, join to 5th p of the 1st ring made, 3ds, join
to 4th p of same ring, 3ds, 3p, sep. by 3ds, 3ds. Chain 7ds, join to last p of
the ring before the last ring 6ds. Ring 3ds, 4p, sep. by 3ds, 3ds. Chain 6ds,
1p 7ds. Ring, 3ds, 1p, 3ds, join to 2nd last p of the 2nd ring of the two that
are joined together, 3ds, 3p, sep. by 3ds, 3ds. Chain 7ds. Ring. 6ds, join to p
of chain after the single ring which was made just before the last ring, 3ds,
4p sep. by 3ds, 6ds. Repeat from *, and fasten off at end of the medallion as
usual. To make the little side scallops, tie the shuttle and ball threads
together, and make a ring thus— 3ds, 1p, 3ds, join to last p of the ring just on
the left of one of the single rings on the side of the work, 3ds, join to 1st p
of the single ring, 3ds. 1p, 3ds, 1p. 3ds. Chain 3ds, 3p, sep. by 3ds, 3ds. Ring,
3ds, 1p 3ds. join to 2nd last p of last ring, 3ds, join to next p of the single
ring, 3ds, 1p, 3ds, 1p, 3ds. Chain 3ds, 4p, sep. by 3ds, 3ds. Ring as last ring.
Chain 3ds, 3p. sep. by 3ds, 3ds. Ring, 3ds, 1p, 3ds, join to usual p of last
ring 3ds, join to 4th p of ring, 3ds, join to 1st p of nearest ring on right. 3ds,
1p, 3ds. Tie neatly and cut threads. Work a similar scallop on each side.
To Mount Tatted Medallions.— Press both the medallions and the material,
then tack the tatting in place. Buttonhole around the edges of the lace,
keeping the loops of the stitches against the work, then cut the surplus material
from under the tatting. Press again on the wrong side.
Designed and worked for The Weekly Times by Norma Benporath. ||
|| Many Questions Answered
PATTERNS have been posted to Mrs
OS. (Werribee), Mrs H. (New South
Wales), Mrs E.W. (via Swan Hill).
"VIOLA" (via Red Cliffs). — Please send
name and postal address.
"MARION C."— For a tie for a child of
six. use 1oz. of Pearsalls knitting silk
and four steel needles No. 17. Ties for
that age are straight. Cast on 36 sts and
work plain for 96 inches. Cast off. Sew
up ends and press flat. You can work
moss stitch k 1, p 1, reversing sts in
next round if you want a fancy tie. In
that case, work on 37 sts.
A.F. (Kew). — The pattern of cockle-
shell bonnet in No. 2 Book is correct.
The extra sts in 3rd row of crown are
knitted. The row is: "Take together
every 7th and 8th stitch"; the other rows
shape with every decrease. Hie pattern
proved so popular that a jacket to match
was worked by request, and published on
page 27 of The Weekly Times Crochet
Book, which also includes a number of
Knitting patterns.
Mrs 0"S (Metro). — To work the blackberry (or bramble)
stitch in knitting, cast on sts. divisible by 2, with 1 extra
stitch at each edge. 1st row— Knit. 2nd row— Purl. 3rd
row— Knit 1. , k 2 tog., repeat from to end, knit last
row singly 4th row— Knit 2, then knit the loop before
the next stitch, then the stitch, repeat along row maintain
ing the original number of sts. I have posted a worked
example to you.
"WATTLE BLOSSOM". — I will give sock pattern next
week, and arrange about doll's clothes.
, "JACKO." — For a man's pullover with a V neck and
colored bands, with No. 8 needles, use 12oz. 4-ply wool, some
red and blue wool. Four No. 10 needles will be needed for
V neck. With No. 8 needles cast on 126 sts for lower edge
of back, in white wool. Work in rib of 1 plain, 1 purl for
J?- ' t,nex row Plain in blue, then 3 more rows of
ribbing in blue. 6 rows red, 4 rows blue; when changing
color knit first row plain to give a flat surface. Now with
No. 8 needles and white wool work in stocking stitch (knit
l £«> Pnrl 1 row, alternatively, always knitting first and
last st of purl rows) for 14 V2 inches. Shape for armhole
by casting off 4 at beginning of each of the next 2 rows,
then cast off 2 at beginning of next 4 rows, then decrease
at each end of the needle on alternate rows 4 times Con
tinue on these stitches for 5\'2 inches. To shape for neck
and shoulders: Work within 7 sts of end. Turn. Work to
within 7 sts of opposite end. Turn. Work across 28 sts.
opposite end. Turn. Work to within 14 sts. of end. Turn.
Work across 28 sts. Cast off IS. Work to within 21 sts
from end. Turn. Work back to neck. Cast off 12 sts. work
across remainder. Cast off. Join will to neck edge of op
posite side, work to within 21 sts from end. Turn. Work
S? . 2. Cast off 12 and work across remainder.
Cast off. THE FRONT: Cast on 126 sts and work as for
back until shaping for armhole. Each half is now worked
separately. Cast off 4 and work across 57 sts. k 2 together
P remaining sts. on to a safety pin. Continue on first
set of ste., shaping the armhole as for the back and decreas
ing on front edge every 3rd row until 30 sts remain. Con
tinue straight until armhole edge is 6 rows deeDer than
the back, then shape the Shoulder. Work from the front
edge to within 7 sts of end. Turn. Work back to the front.
Work to within 14 sts from end Turn. Work back to front.
Work to within 21 sts from end. Turn. Work bade to front.
Work, across all sts. Cast off. Join wool to centre front of
complete this side to match the first. THE
SLEEVES: Cast on 38 sts. knit into back of sts. cast on 2 sts
®i.end of row. On next row work into back of cast on sts
?Pd purl across row. Cast on 2 sts at €nd everv row until
sts_1 needle. Work 8 rows even, then on the
»nf?i 15 yery 8 h r< decrease at each end of the needle
untu 60 sts remain. Work 8 rows even. Change to No. 10
needles and rib 4 inches white, then 2 rows blue, 4 rows
2 rojVLblVel 8 rows white. Cast off. Sew shoulders
of back and front toeether. and with 4 No. 10 needles pick
aj'd the edge of everv row at the
neck edge. Work-in rib. decreasing on both sides of front
point every row. 2 rows white. 2 rows blue. 2 rows red. 2
w CasJ off. decreasing at same time.
of sleeves to armhole. press work on wrong std#
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