Cover Image Property of PUBLISHER
This image was scanned from my private collection


  • Preface
    • Directions for Knitting
    • A New Stitch for Knitting
    • Knitted Lace Edgings-
      • Eyelet-Hole Edge
      • Vandyke Border
      • Leaf Edges
      • Lace Edging
      • Valenciennes Lace
      • Narrow Edge
      • Broad Open Lace
      • Point Lace Patter
      • Edging for Collar
    • Lace Collars-
      • First Pattern
      • Second Pattern
      • Third Pattern
    • Honeycomb Knitting
    • Baby's Bonnet
    • Curtain
    • Anti-Macassar
    • Bonnet Cap
    • Brioche Stitch
    • Knitted Comforter
    • Double Knitting for Comforters
    • Insertion
    • French Cushion
    • Gimp Trimming
    • Fringe
    • Border and Fringe
    • Shetland Wool Ruffle
    • Gentleman's Slipper
    • Quilt
    • Spanish Bag
    • Turkish Bag
    • Bresage Shawl
    • Zephyr Handkerchief
    • Remarks on Netting
    • Bead Stitch
    • Netting with Shaded Silk
    • Purses-
      • Strong Netting for Purses
      • First Pattern
      • Second Pattern
      • Sovereign Purse
      • Splendid Purse
      • Lady's Plain Purse
      • Seam Purse, With Beads
      • Purse in Squares, with Beads
      • Best method of closing a Purse
    • Stitch Adapted for Curtain
    • Toilet Cover
    • Sofa Guard
    • Puff Netting
    • Bags-
      • Bag in Shaded Silk
      • Bag, Pretty
    • Honeycomb Netting
    • Mittens-
      • First Pattern
      • Second Pattern
      • Third Pattern
    • Mat
    • Shawl
    • Shawl in Stripes
    • Vase Stand
    • Tatting for Trimmings
    • Open Stitch with Fine Bobbin
    • Star Tatting
    • The Frame and Stitches
    • Working Figures
    • Velvet Stitch
    • German Diamond
    • Russian pattern
    • Algerine Work
    • Gobelin Stitch
    • Victoria Pattern
    • Basket Stitch

Title: Ladies' Work-box Companion: a Hand-book of Knitting, Netting, Tatting and Berlin Work
Editor: George S. Appleton
Format/Publication Date: HC:1849!
Publisher: George S. Appleton, Philadelphia, PA
Language: English
Page Count: 64
Book Dimensions(ht. x w.): 4 1/2" x 3 1/4"
ISBN: None

SUMMARY- This is a tiny hardcover book that can fit in the palm of your hand. I had to use a magnifying glass in order to type in the Table of Contents. Mr. Appleton could pack so much information into this tiny format by not including a single illustration in the entire book - it's all description. The tatting chapter consists of three(3) pages! I'm going to transcribe the tatting chapter here for those others of us who are fascinated by the history and evolution of our craft, and like me, don't really have the money to collect original sources, but unlike me, have the sense to just hunt down reliable secondary sources. I keep telling my husband I'm doing this for posterity, and to learn to enjoy rice and beans. My husband proves every day how much he loves me by not complaining.

If you need a comb-bound reprint of the entire book, I can provide one pretty inexpensively. Just contact me via my contact page on this website.

TRANSCRIPT OF THE TATTING CHAPTER(proofread carefully for quality control):


       Thread the tatting-needle with cotton, tie a knot at the end, place the knot on the forefinger of the left hand, then extend the second, third, and fourth fingers so as to form a loop around them by passing the cotton round the back of them and bringing it round to the forefinger again over the knot; hold it tightly down with the forefinger and thumb between the second and third fingers. When the scollop is forming, bring the tatting-needle and thread towards you, straight across from the forefinger and thumb, between the second and third fingers, observing to have the thread on the needle between the worker and the needle; after having drawn it through, hold the needle and thread tightly extended from the right hand to the left, and the loop round the finger loose, as the stitch is made with the loop round the fingers, and not with the thread nearest the needle, then withdraw the second finger, so as to admit the loop round the fingers; insert the finger, and with the second form the stitch by drawing it up to its place, which is close to the thumb; this finishes one stitch, twenty more form the scollop, draw the thread attached to the needle tightly, so as to pull up the scollop, commence another scollop in the same way. Tatting stitches are all formed by the loop round the fingers.

       This is done with peculiarly fine bobbin, and is a pretty trimming for the bottom of petticoats. Form the loop round the finger, as before directed, also the first stitch; the next stitch throw the bobbin over the back of the hand, instead of bringing it towards you, as in the first stitch; insert the needle down through the finger loop, between the first and second fingers; draw it up through between the two bobbins over the back of the fingers, and with the second finger form the stitch as before. The next stitch the same as first, leave it long to form a long loop; then, as before, over the back of the hand, repeat the long loop and the one over the back of the hand alternately, until the seven loops are formed; then draw the bobbin up to form the scollop. Plain tatting may be done in the same manner as the second stitch is described.

       A Pretty trimming can be formed by working six scollops of tatting drawn closely up to form a star. When a sufficient number is worked, sew them together lengthwise. Another star may be added below between every other star already worked. This makes a pretty vandyke trimming, suited for curtains, or toilet covers and petticoats.

That's it. That's all of it. Nothing else to see here. There are no tantalizing illustrations of what he refers to as a needle or bobbin. The description for forming the stitches is an interesting one - clearly the formal terms we use now haven't developed yet. Discrete motifs are sewn together, not joined during the process of tatting them. There are other geeky points to be made, but you can tease the ones that interest you out of the text yourself.