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TABLE OF CONTENTS

  • Acknowledgments
  • INTRODUCTION
  • THE MESSAGES OF JEWELRY: Why We Wear Ornaments
    • The Origins of Jewelry
    • Jewelry Forms in Relation to the Body
  • THE MEANS TO CREATION: Working Evnironment, Facilites, and Implements
    • The Workshop
    • Tools
  • METAL, THE JEWEL'S RAW MATERIAL: Its Origin, Quality Control, and Variety
    • Metal Characteristics and Classifications
    • Gold Mining
    • Quality Control of Precious Metals
    • Nonferrous Metals Used in Jewelry Making
    • Refractory Metals Used in Jewelry
    • Ferrous Metals Used in Jewelry
  • BASIC TECHNIQUES: Processing Sheet Metal Without Deformation
    • The Rolling Mill
    • Measuring and Marking
    • Design Transfer to Metal
    • Cutting Sheet Metal
    • Sawing
    • Cold Bending Sheet Metal
    • Piercing
    • Files and Filing
    • Milling
  • SHEET METAL: Forming by Deformation Techniques
    • Sheet Metal Structured Distortion
    • Doming
    • Repoussage and Chasing
    • Demo 1: Margaret Laws' Silver Vest of Relief-modeled forms
    • Stamping
    • Demo 2: George Paul van Duinwyk makes stamped pendant-necklace
  • WIRE: Uses of Drawn or Extruded Flexible Filaments
    • Wire
    • Filigree
    • DEMO 3: Fausto Vargas Ramirez makes filigree earring
    • Chains
    • DEMO 4: Chuck Evans shows interlocking deformed links
    • CHAIN MAIL(4 pages)
    • DEMO 5: David LaPlantz makes chain mail necklace
    • Wire and Strip in Interworked Processes
    • Forging
    • DEMO 6: Albert Paley maked forged brooch
  • TUBING: The Uses of Fistular Forms
    • The Tube
    • DEMO 7: Richard Mawdsley draws round tubing to hexagonal section
    • DEMO 8: Richard Mawdsley constructs brooch with tubing
    • Tapered Tubing
    • DEMO 9: Marcia Lewis makes neckpiece
  • SURFACE ORNAMENT WITHOUT HEAT: Metal Removal Techniques
    • Engraving
    • DEMO 10: Ilse Immich engraves silver pendant
    • Scoring
    • Chip Carving
    • DEMO 11: Gene Pijanowski investigates chisel-cut textures
    • Metal Inlay
    • DEMO 12: Hiroko Sato Pijanowski inlays pendant
    • Acid Etching of Metal
    • DEMO 13: Mary Ann Scherr relief etches pendant
  • SURFACE ORNAMENT WITH HEAT: Metal Fusion Techniques
    • Reticulation: Samorodok
    • DEMO 14: Gene Pijanowski explores reticulation possibilities
    • Fusing Metal
    • DEMO 15: Rita Greer hot models an owl brooch
    • Granulation
    • DEMO 16: John Paul Miller illustrates granulation method on pendant
    • Metal Lamination Fabrication
    • Mokume Gane
    • Niello
  • FABRICATION: Building Fragments Into Units
    • Soldering
    • Screws, Bolts and Nuts, and Screw Joints
    • Rivets and Riveting
    • DEMO 17: Nilda C. Fernandez Getty utilizes rivets in pendant
    • Lathe and Machined Jewelry
    • DEMO 18: Gary S. Griffin shows use of fixed tool lathe techniques
    • Plastics in Jewelry
    • DEMO 19: David Keens fabricates a brooch using plastics shaped by various methods
    • DEMO 20: Rodolfo R. Azaro uses silicone rubber mold
  • CASTING: Methods of Giving Form to Molten Metal
    • Gravity Pour Casting
    • DEMO 21: Alice Shannon cuttlebone casts a pendant
    • Lost Wax Casting
    • DEMO 22: Thomas Gentille forms rigid bracelet exploiting wax characteristics
    • Centrifugal Casting
    • DEMO 23: Lynda Watson-Abbott uses intaglio clay mold to form wax relief model for casting
    • Rubber Mold Wax Injection
    • DEMO 24: Bjorn Weckstrom designed production brooch
  • NATURAL MATERIALS IN JEWELRY: Using Nature's Valued Nonmetals
    • Organic Materials Used in Jewelry
    • DEMO 25: Methods used by K. Mikimoto & Co., Ltd, Tokyo, JAPAN
  • STONES AND THEIR SETTING: Inorganic Minerals Employed in Jewelry
    • Stones
  • METAL FINISHING: Achieving Desired Surface Appearance
    • Metal Finishing Techniques
  • METALLIC COATING TECHNIQUES: Changing the Base Metal's Surface Appearance
    • Cold Gilding with Metal Leaf
    • DEMO 26: Traditional techniques as modified today
    • Mercury Amalgam Gilding
    • DEMO 27: Walter Soellner devised closed venting system
    • DEMO 28: Mitsuko Kambe Soellner parcel gilds a shakudo pendant
    • DEMO 29: Walter Soellner parcel gilds a steel belt buckle
  • METALLIC BUILDUP: Electrolytic Molecular Creation of Surface and Form
    • Electroplating
    • Electroforming
    • DEMO 30: Stanley Lechtzin uses two idustrial processes
    • Photoelectroforming
  • COLORING METALS: Achieving Patinas Through Heat, Chemicals, Electrolysis
    • Metal Coloring
    • Anodizing Metals
    • Titanium Coloring
  • STANDARD WEIGHTS, MEASURES, TABLES:
    • Abbrevations used
    • Linear Measurements
    • Measures of Weight and Mass
    • Capacity: Liquids
    • Temperature
    • Time and Speed
  • BIBLIOGRAPHIES:
    • Historic Jewelry
    • Jewelry Technology
    • Lapidary; Minerology; Gemology
    • Exhibition Catalogs and Handbooks on Jewelry
    • Periodicals: Jewelry
    • Periodicals: Lapidary
  • GLOSSARIES:
    • visual Glossary
    • Forms of Jewelry
    • Jewelry Findings
  • SOURCES OF TOOLS, SUPPLIES, SERVICES
  • INDEX

Title: Jewelry Concepts and Technology
Author/Designer: Oppi Untracht
Format/Publication Date: HC:1982
Publisher: Doubleday, NY
Page Count: 840
Book Dimensions(ht. x w.): 11 1/4" x 8 1/2"
ISBN: 0385041853

SUMMARY- THE TABLE OF CONTENTS IS NOT COMPLETE. The actual Table of Contents is seven(7) pages of small print. I excerpted the highlights. Otherwise I'd still be typing. I really love encyclopedias of any sort. This book falls into that category. It gives a huge overview of jewelry making. Leafing through is a pleasure. It was the most expensive book I'd ever bought at the time(I bought it new at $125) and the crown jewel of my meager chainmail reference collection. It has held its value on the used book market(I checked out of curiosity) so it's still expensive to purchase. I've treasured my copy for 30 years now, and have never run across anything comparable to its scope. One of the best reference purchases I ever made.